Jaffna & Trincomalee: the other Sri Lanka

An off-the-beaten-track cave temple near Kurunegala, then on to Habarana.

Instead of the usual route you drive through the hills near Kurunegala to Ridi Viharaya, the “silver temple”: cave shrines from the 2nd century BC among rocks and rice fields, with a reclining Buddha and a step of Dutch tiles. In the afternoon you check in near Habarana.

The ancient capital by bike or car, sunset on the rock of Mihintale.

For more than a thousand years Anuradhapura was the island’s capital. You travel from stupa to stupa – the white Ruwanwelisaya, the monastery ruins and the sacred Bodhi tree. Late in the afternoon you climb the old stone stairs of Mihintale, where Buddhism arrived in Sri Lanka, for the sunset.

Via the Elephant Pass into the Tamil north, a Jaffna crab curry in the evening.

Today you head north via Vavuniya and the Elephant Pass to Jaffna, about four hours. The land turns flat and dry, with palmyra palms, lagoons and brightly painted Hindu temples. In the evening you try a Jaffna crab curry, spicier than anything in the south.

Causeways across the lagoon, a boat to Nainativu and a swim at Casuarina Beach.

Long causeways lead across the shallow lagoon to the islands off Jaffna. A small boat takes you to Nainativu, where a Buddhist and a Hindu temple stand a few steps apart. On the way you see fishing villages and lagoon birds, and you swim at Casuarina Beach.

Nallur temple, the Dutch fort and the island’s northern tip.

In the morning you visit the Nallur Kandaswamy temple, the city’s most important Hindu shrine, then the Dutch fort and the rebuilt Jaffna library. In the afternoon you drive to Point Pedro at the island’s northern tip and the freshwater springs of Keerimalai.

Through the eastern forests to the bay of Trincomalee and the cliff temple of Koneswaram.

Via Kilinochchi you drive about four hours to Trincomalee and one of the world’s great natural harbours. Your hotel is right on Uppuveli beach, where the sea is calm in summer. At sunset you visit the Koneswaram temple high on a cliff above the sea.

Snorkelling over the coral reef of Pigeon Island National Park.

In the morning a boat takes you to Pigeon Island National Park. The coral reef starts right off the beach, with colourful fish, often reef sharks and turtles. Snorkelling gear is included. In the afternoon there is time for the beach at Nilaveli.

Optional whale watching (Mar–Aug), Marble Beach or the hot springs of Kanniya.

From March to August blue whales and sperm whales pass close to Trincomalee – an optional boat trip in the early morning. Or stay on the beach, visit the clear water of Marble Beach or the seven hot springs of Kanniya.

The lagoon town of Batticaloa, then the shallow bay of Pasikudah.

Along the coast you drive south to Batticaloa, a quiet town between lagoon and sea with a small Dutch fort and a lighthouse. In the afternoon you reach Pasikudah, a wide bay with shallow, calm water – your hotel is right on the beach.

A free day in the calm, shallow bay of Pasikudah.

A whole day without a plan. A reef protects the bay of Pasikudah, so the water stays shallow and warm far out. Read in the shade, book an Ayurvedic massage or snorkel. In the evening the sky turns orange over the bay.

The ruined royal city of Polonnaruwa and an elephant safari – “The Gathering” from July to September.

On the way back inland you explore Polonnaruwa, the island’s second royal city, by bike – with Gal Vihara and its Buddhas carved from granite. In the afternoon an open jeep takes you to Kaudulla or Minneriya, where from July to September hundreds of wild elephants gather.

After breakfast, the drive to Colombo airport.

After a last breakfast by the lake your driver takes you to Colombo airport, about three and a half hours away, timed to your departure. On request you stop at a fruit or cashew stand near Kurunegala. Or extend with a few more nights by the sea.