Sri Lanka’s holiest shrine
The Sri Dalada Maligawa houses a relic of the Buddha’s tooth. The evening puja, with drums and offerings of flowers, is the best time to visit.
Wear clothes covering shoulders and knees; shoes stay outside.
Things to do in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Kandy rewards a slower pace. Walk around the lake, climb to the Bahirawakanda Buddha for the view, and give the botanic gardens a morning.
The festival of the tooth
For ten nights in July or August, elephants, dancers and drummers parade through the city. It is spectacular and very busy – book early if your trip overlaps.
A day in Kandy
Start early at the Peradeniya Royal Botanic Gardens, just outside town, before the day gets hot: the avenue of royal palms, the orchid house and the giant Javan fig tree are highlights. Return to the centre for lunch, then walk the flat path around Kandy Lake. In the late afternoon, visit the Temple of the Tooth in time for the evening puja, when drummers play and pilgrims bring offerings of lotus flowers.
After dark, a short Kandyan dance performance near the lake shows the dramatic costumes and drumming of the hill-country tradition, often ending with fire-walking. For a view over the city, drive up to the Bahirawakanda Buddha statue or the Arthur’s Seat viewpoint.
Kandy as a base for the hill country
Kandy sits at the gateway to the tea country. From here the road and railway climb towards Nuwara Eliya and Ella, and many travellers join the famous train at Kandy or at Nanu Oya. With two nights in Kandy you have time for the city without rushing, and a relaxed start into the hills.
Our own team is based just outside Kandy, which is one reason we know its temples, restaurants and quieter corners so well.
The history of Kandy
Kandy was the capital of the last independent Sinhalese kingdom, which held out against the Portuguese and Dutch for more than two centuries before falling to the British in 1815. The tooth relic, brought to Sri Lanka in the 4th century, has always been kept by the island’s rulers as a symbol of their right to govern – which is why the Temple of the Tooth stands next to the old royal palace.
Where to eat in Kandy
Try a rice and curry lunch at one of the small local restaurants near the lake, or string hoppers and kottu roti in the evening. For tea, the colonial Queen’s Hotel and the tea shops along the lake road are classic stops. Our guides are always happy to recommend their own favourites.
Temple of the Tooth: practical tips
The temple complex is open daily. The temple opens early in the morning and closes in the evening. Ceremonies with drumming take place in the morning, at midday and in the evening; the evening puja is the most atmospheric. Cover shoulders and knees – sarongs can be borrowed – and leave shoes at the shoe counter.
The relic itself is kept in a golden casket inside the inner shrine and is not shown to visitors, but you can file past the chamber during the ceremony. Allow about an hour, including the museums and the old royal palace next door.
Peradeniya Royal Botanic Gardens
Laid out in the 19th century on the site of a royal garden, Peradeniya covers around 60 hectares on a bend of the Mahaweli River. The avenue of royal palms, the orchid house, the spice garden and the enormous Javan fig tree are the highlights. It is the best place in Sri Lanka for a relaxed walk in the shade – plan two hours.
Esala Perahera: tips for visitors
The festival lasts about ten nights in July or August, growing larger each evening and culminating in the Randoli Perahera with dozens of decorated elephants. Seats along the route sell out early and hotel prices rise sharply. If your trip overlaps, let us know as early as possible – we reserve seats and hotels well in advance.
Where to stay in Kandy
Kandy: questions
One full day is enough for the highlights; two if you want a slower pace.
Usually in July or August, depending on the lunar calendar.
Yes – it is the cultural heart of the island and the gateway to the hill country.