When the monsoon reaches the south, the east is at its best. After the Cultural Triangle you head into the Tamil north, visit the islands off Jaffna and then travel down the east coast. Two days on the beach at Pasikudah round it off.
Itinerary
Airport pick-up, evening by the sea.
After landing in Colombo, your guide meets you in the arrivals hall with a sign and a cold king coconut. The drive to the Negombo lagoon takes only about twenty minutes, so you reach the hotel quickly after the long flight. The rest of the day is yours: sleep, swim in the pool or walk along the beach, where fishermen pull their outrigger boats onto the sand in the late afternoon. In the evening we meet for a welcome dinner with fresh seafood and talk through the days ahead.
Via Dambulla to Sigiriya.
After breakfast we leave the coast and drive inland through coconut groves and rice paddies. On the way we stop at the Dambulla cave temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site: five caves beneath an overhanging rock are filled with Buddha statues and painted ceilings, some more than two thousand years old. From the top of the rock there is a wide view across the forest to Sigiriya. We reach the hotel near Sigiriya in the early afternoon – time for the pool before the monkeys start chattering in the trees at dusk.
An early climb, pool in the afternoon.
Before sunrise we drive to the Lion Rock. Among the first at the gate, we climb in the cool morning air through the water gardens, past the cloud maidens and the lion paws to the summit, with the forest stretching to the horizon. By mid-morning we are back at the hotel for a late breakfast. The afternoon is free: swim, rest in the shade, or take a short bicycle ride through the nearby villages with your guide.
The sacred city and the oldest documented tree in the world.
Today we visit Anuradhapura, the first great capital of Sri Lanka, founded more than 2,000 years ago. Enormous white stupas rise above the plain, and at the heart of the sacred city stands the Sri Maha Bodhi, grown from a cutting of the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment – the oldest documented tree in the world. In the afternoon we return to the hotel near Sigiriya.
Via Mihintale to Jaffna.
Heading north, we stop at Mihintale, where Buddhism is said to have come to Sri Lanka, and climb the stairs to the hilltop temple for a view across the plains. The landscape changes as we continue north: palmyra palms, lagoons and small Hindu shrines by the road. In the late afternoon we arrive in Jaffna, the cultural capital of the Tamil north.
By ferry to Nainativu, one island with two faiths.
By causeway and a short ferry we reach the islands off the Jaffna peninsula. On Nainativu, a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Nagapooshani stands close to a Buddhist shrine – one island, two faiths. We return via the long causeways across the lagoons, with fishermen wading through the shallows, and have a late lunch of Jaffna crab curry.
Nallur temple, the fort and Tamil cooking.
A day in Jaffna itself. We visit the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple, the most important Hindu temple of the north, with its golden gopuram tower (men remove shirts before entering). We walk the ramparts of the Dutch fort, see the rebuilt Jaffna Public Library and taste the local specialities – from spicy odiyal kool soup to ice cream at a famous old parlour.
Along the lagoons to Trincomalee.
Today we travel south-east along the lagoons to Trincomalee on the east coast, one of the finest natural harbours in the world. On the way we pass small fishing villages and rice fields. In the afternoon we reach the beach hotel at Nilaveli or Uppuveli, with calm, turquoise water in the summer months.
Snorkelling with reef sharks and turtles.
A short boat ride takes us to Pigeon Island National Park, a small coral island just off the coast. With mask and snorkel you can see reef fish, turtles and, with luck, harmless blacktip reef sharks in the shallow water. Back on the mainland, the afternoon is free on the beach.
Koneswaram temple, afternoon on the beach.
In the morning we visit the Koneswaram Temple, perched on Swami Rock high above the sea, and Fort Frederick, where spotted deer wander between the old buildings. The rest of the day is free for the beach or an optional whale-watching trip – blue and sperm whales pass Trincomalee between May and August.
Down the coast to the island’s shallowest bay.
Down the coast we drive to Pasikudah, a wide, sheltered bay with some of the calmest and shallowest water on the island – you can walk far out into the sea. The afternoon is for swimming and relaxing at the hotel on the beach.
Free – swim, read, do nothing.
A free day by the sea in Pasikudah. Swim, read, take a boat trip or cycle to the nearby lagoon villages. Our tour leader is happy to help arrange anything you would like to do.
Through the interior, Temple of the Tooth in the evening.
From the east coast we cross the island’s interior, through forests and past reservoirs, climbing towards Kandy in the hills. In the evening we visit the Temple of the Tooth for the puja ceremony, one of the most atmospheric experiences of the whole journey.
Botanic gardens, then on to Negombo.
A final morning in Kandy at the Peradeniya Botanic Gardens, then we drive back towards the west coast. The farewell dinner tonight is by the sea in Negombo, close to the airport.
Transfer to the airport.
Depending on your flight time, there may be a last walk on the beach or through the fort. Your transfer to Colombo airport takes about two hours on the expressway from the south coast. If you would like more time by the sea, we can easily extend your holiday with 3, 5 or 7 nights on the beach.
Why travel north and east in summer
From May to September the south-west monsoon brings rain and rough seas to the south and west coasts, but the north and east are dry and the sea is calm. This tour turns that to your advantage: it combines the Cultural Triangle with the Tamil north around Jaffna and the east-coast beaches of Trincomalee and Pasikudah.
The north was closed to most visitors for decades and is still rarely on tourist routes. Expect colourful Hindu temples, a distinct cuisine, very few other travellers and a warm welcome.
What to expect in the north
Jaffna has a distinct Tamil culture: colourful Hindu temples, spicy crab curry, palmyra palms and a slower pace of life. The islands off the peninsula are reached by short ferry crossings. Tourist infrastructure is simpler than in the south, and hotels are comfortable rather than luxurious – part of the charm.
Hotels on this route
Included
Not included
Questions about North & East
May to September – the sea in the east is calm and the north is dry.
An average level of fitness is enough. Sigiriya has around 1,200 steps, taken slowly in the cool of the morning; everything else is short walks.
Yes – with 3, 5 or 7 nights on the beach, or private days before or after the tour.
No. Prices are from and to Colombo airport; we will suggest suitable flights from the UK or US.
