Sri Lanka at Leisure: the whole island, unhurried

Via the Dambulla cave temple to Sigiriya.

After breakfast we leave the coast and drive inland through coconut groves and rice paddies. On the way we stop at the Dambulla cave temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site: five caves beneath an overhanging rock are filled with Buddha statues and painted ceilings, some more than two thousand years old. From the top of the rock there is a wide view across the forest to Sigiriya. We reach the hotel near Sigiriya in the early afternoon – time for the pool before the monkeys start chattering in the trees at dusk.

An early climb, then a free afternoon.

Before sunrise we drive to the Lion Rock. Among the first at the gate, we climb in the cool morning air through the water gardens, past the cloud maidens and the lion paws to the summit, with the forest stretching to the horizon. By mid-morning we are back at the hotel for a late breakfast. The afternoon is free: swim, rest in the shade, or take a short bicycle ride through the nearby villages with your guide.

The old royal city on two wheels; elephants in Minneriya in the evening.

Today we explore Polonnaruwa, the medieval royal capital, by bicycle – the ruins are spread over a flat area and are perfect for cycling at an easy pace. Highlights include the royal palace, the circular Vatadage and the Gal Vihara, four Buddha figures carved from a single granite rock. After lunch in a village restaurant, we set out in jeeps for an elephant safari in Minneriya or Kaudulla, returning to the hotel at dusk.

Spice garden on the way, Temple of the Tooth in the evening.

Leaving the dry zone behind, the road climbs gently into the hills. On the way we stop at a spice garden to see how cinnamon, cardamom, pepper and nutmeg grow and how they are used in Ayurvedic medicine. In the afternoon we reach Kandy, the last royal capital, set around a lake. In the early evening we visit the Temple of the Tooth for the puja ceremony, when drummers play and pilgrims bring offerings of lotus flowers to the sacred relic.

Botanic gardens, afternoon free.

The morning belongs to the Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya, just outside the city: an avenue of royal palms, a fragrant orchid house, giant bamboo and the enormous Javan fig tree. Back in Kandy, the afternoon is at leisure – walk around the lake, browse the market, take a tuk-tuk up to the viewpoint above the city, or simply relax at the hotel. In the evening you can watch a performance of traditional Kandyan dance and drumming.

Tea factory and tasting, arrival in Nuwara Eliya.

Today the road winds up into the heart of the tea country, past waterfalls and endless green terraces. We stop at a tea factory to follow the leaf from plucking to withering, rolling and drying – and, of course, to taste the result. In the afternoon we arrive in Nuwara Eliya, at almost 1,900 metres, with its colonial-era houses, rose gardens and cool mountain air. Evenings here can be chilly: a fire in the hotel lounge is part of the experience.

Morning hike to World’s End, afternoon by the fire.

An early start for Horton Plains National Park, a high plateau of grassland and cloud forest at over 2,000 metres. The circular walk of about 9 km leads to World’s End, where the land drops almost 900 metres into the valley below – the view is clearest before the mist rises around mid-morning. On the way back we pass Baker’s Falls. The afternoon is free to rest by the fire or stroll around Nuwara Eliya.

The island’s most beautiful railway, reserved seats.

Today is one of the highlights: the train journey through the hill country. From Nanu Oya the line winds through tea estates, pine forests and small stations, climbing past Pattipola, the highest point of the railway, before descending towards Ella. We have reserved seats for the whole group, and your luggage travels separately by car. In the late afternoon, after arriving in Ella, those who wish can walk up Little Adam’s Peak for sunset over the valley.

Little Adam’s Peak, Nine Arches Bridge, cookery class in the evening.

A whole day in Ella, the most relaxed place in the hill country. In the morning we walk through tea gardens to the Nine Arches Bridge, a stone viaduct from the colonial era, and wait for the blue train to cross the arches. Afterwards there is time for a café in town or a short trip to Ravana Falls. In the late afternoon we visit a family on the hillside who cook with you: you grate coconut, mix spices and prepare several curries, which we then eat together. We end the day with sunset over the Ella Gap.

Drive south, afternoon jeep safari.

Today we descend from the mountains to the dry lowlands of the south. The landscape changes quickly: tea estates give way to rice fields, lakes and finally scrubland. In the early afternoon we check in at the lodge on the edge of Yala National Park. Then we climb into an open jeep and head into the park with an experienced naturalist. Yala has one of the highest leopard densities in the world; elephants, sloth bears, crocodiles, water buffalo and countless birds live here too. Our drivers keep their distance and never crowd the animals – which makes every encounter calmer.

Quiet bays and an afternoon on the beach.

After the adventure in the national park, the sea is waiting. We drive along the coast to Tangalle, one of the quietest beach towns in Sri Lanka. Instead of large resorts there are wide, almost empty bays lined with coconut palms and small houses with character. The afternoon is free for swimming, reading or walking. If you like, visit the rock temple of Mulkirigala with your guide, or the Rekawa lagoon, where sea turtles come ashore at night to lay their eggs. In the evening all you hear is the sound of the waves and the chirping of crickets.

Stilt fishermen on the way, sunset on the ramparts.

Along the south coast we drive west towards Galle, passing sandy bays and, near Koggala, the famous stilt fishermen. In the afternoon we explore Galle Fort on foot: the ramparts built by the Dutch, the white lighthouse, old churches and narrow lanes full of colonial houses, cafés and small shops. At sunset we walk the walls to Flag Rock and watch the sun sink into the Indian Ocean.

Transfer to the airport – or extend by the sea.

Depending on your flight time, there may be a last walk on the beach or through the fort. Your transfer to Colombo airport takes about two hours on the expressway from the south coast. If you would like more time by the sea, we can easily extend your holiday with 3, 5 or 7 nights on the beach.